lisbon pt. 1 of 2

“Lisbon, even from afar, rises like a fair vision in a dream, clear-cut against a bright blue sky which the sun gladdens with its gold. And the domes, the monuments, the old castles jut up above the mass of houses, like far-off heralds of this delightful seat, of this blessed region.”

-Fernando Pessoa, Lisbon: What the Tourist Should See

Pictured here: evidence of perfect weather every day (25-30 degrees Celsius, clear blue skies). Walks through Alfama, walks through Chiado. Walking along the Avenida da Liberdade, a tree-lined boulevard. A Vida Portuguesa, a shop selling traditional products (housed in a former perfume factory). An art opening in an 18th century palace. The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, the National Coach Museum. Tropical gardens. Churches, marble, coffee at kiosks Clara Clara and Bananacafe.

Not pictured here: walking up hills that seemed to have an incline of 85 degrees (I loved it). Getting to the top of a narrow alleyway staircase, my back screaming, noticing the staircase is actually called “Backbreaker Lane.” Drinking wine in the courtyard of a palace. Hidden passageways, espresso multiple times a day, the smell of juniper, dried-out palm trees, pastel buildings, Art Nouveau details. Ice cream made of rose petals. The friendliest and most helpful people (except that one cab driver). Possibly a lot of ghosts. The most heart-achingly romantic trip of my life.